What
makes certain wines of high quality, or as the Italians would say, 'perfecto'?
Can the price tag of a bottle act as an indicator of what's good (expensive)
and what's not (cheap)? There are many wine experts out there that can tell us
what they think is a quality bottle of wine, but can we trust their advice?
Haley and I looked at an article that questioned these same things. "What
Determines Wine Prices: Objective vs. Sensory Characteristics" discusses
this price puzzle in the wine industry. It discusses the relationship price has
on what we believe is the quality of wine.
There are
two main opinions on this price/quality discrepancy for wine. The first says
that price differences very clearly reflect quality differences. They believe
that the market forces adjustments in prices and consumers can’t be fooled.
However, the other side would disagree with this claim because they think it is
a weak argument. This may apple to some wines, but not the majority. The vast
assortment and types of wines makes it difficult for prices to be strongly correlated
with quality.
Our class
went and visited the renowned winery Villa Della Torre, where we were able to
tour the historic grounds and taste some of their popular wines. Before we
tasted these well-known wines, we were told about how prestigious one of them
was, the Amarone. The Amarone has won many awards over the years and has been
among the top wines across the world as well. A man who worked for the vineyard
told us that it is “a wine you must have before you die.” After tasting the
wine for ourselves, and hearing about some of the other high-status wines we
were given the option to purchase these wines. Many of us heard earlier that
these bottles of wine were roughly $100 or more in the US. But, when we looked
at the price at the vineyard for a bottle, it was only 25 euros. Seeing this
many of us decided to buy a bottle… or two… or even a case. I sat there
watching this process happen and wondered if we were victims of this
price-quality relationship.
The
article describes a situation that occurred with Ernest Gallo many years ago
while he was selling wine. He offered a customer two glasses of the same wine,
and after the buyer tried both the glasses he asked for the price of the “two”
wines. Gallo said 5 cents for one and 10 cents for the other. The buyer bought
the 10 cent one. This shows that they believed that the more expensive was of
higher quality, when in fact it was the same wine. Other studies have also
shown that less experienced wine tasters tend to prefer cheaper wine when doing
blind tastings. Also, in the auction room you will notice that higher priced
wines act as a “stimulant rather than a deterrent.”
After
conducting a more controlled study with blind tasting, the article was able to
conclude that the initial characteristics that are found on a bottle of wine
(ranking, vintage, and appellation) explain the price difference. However,
sensory variables also have a large impact on how wines are ranked. So perhaps
we were influenced to buy the Amarone and other wines at Villa Della Torre
because of external factors such as the price and awards. But, if the awards
were given based off of sensory characteristics then you could say we truly
were purchasing “quality wine” whether we actually knew or not. -Amy Wooten
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